After I blogged about my aggressive spring sewing plans, I did the logical thing: I cut out a wool jacket. In my defense, shortly after I cut it out, we actually got a bit of snow in Philadelphia. So, it’s not like, totally ridiculous or anything. I intended to make this jacket this winter, so this was a last ditch effort to wrap up my winter sewing list.
This is the same out of print Vogue I used for my brown tweed jacket that I made this fall. I was inspired by the blazer above, from Boden, which featured some classic British tweed fabric and grosgrain ribbon trim. I knew I had this black, white, and red checked fabric hanging around in my stash–a long-ago purchase from Fabric Mart–and, I thought it was the perfect inspiration.
I think I fixed a few of the fit issues that I had with my other jacket. I made the whole thing a tiny bit larger, except I took in the waist a bit. I also took in a bit in the princess seam between the bust and the shoulder on the front (but looking at the photos, it does seem like I should have taken out a bit more). I added about 1/4″ on both side seams below the waist to accomodate my, ahem, slight winter weight gain (which went straight to my hips). The back hangs a bit better now. I think if I were awesome, I could make the fit more perfect, but I’m pretty happy with it. If I were to make another version, I’d work on the sleeves–something funky is going on with the sleeve heads, and the upper sleeves are a bit wide.
In terms of details, I used some scraps of red tie silk for the under collar and also the underside of the pocket flaps. I added grosgrain ribbon trim on the upper collar and on the welt above the pocket flap. And, I made bound buttonholes for the metal buttons I purchased at M&J Trimming in NYC last fall. They remind me of the classic leather buttons you often see on blazers. I’m really happy with how all the details came out. I feel like a total double-welt pocket pro!
In terms of matching the plaids, I focused on making sure the red stripe matched. Since this plaid had multiple check sizes (large, medium, AND small), I made an effort to keep the rows of big checks on the same horizontal line, which extends across the sleeves as well. It isn’t perfect–I literally couldn’t match the pocket flaps because of where the red lines fell on the front pieces. So, I chose to cut the pocket flaps on the diagonal and without any red line running through them. I think they look ok, but it would have been super awesome if I had been able to match the flaps to the main part of the jacket. I would have had to re-cut the two front pieces, though, and I really didn’t want to do that.
Overall, I think this project is more successful than my previous jacket. Next fall, I really want to make a coat for myself, so these projects have increased my confidence!
A quick note on the skirt: it’s actually yet another version of the Liesl & Co. Everyday Skirt (black is so hard to photograph!). I made this out of some black wool that is thick and warm. I made it right before the holidays and have worn it CONSTANTLY since. Like, seriously, at least once per week. It looks great with a sweater or with a blouse and is so comfortable and easy to wear. I took out 2″ of ease in both the front and the back since I was using thicker fabric, and I also added a lining.